Hunky and chunky

An unusually full-bodied profile for this Speyside stalwart, with lots of sandalwood, waxed canvas, oatcakes, white pepper and soda bread. We also noted some dried flowers, papaya and green orchard fruits. With reduction the nose displayed some big notes of battenberg cake, apricot jelly, pear cordial, crushed ivy and pine cones. The palate opened with pollens, canvas, mineral oils, sun lotion and toasted pumpkin seeds; this was big, hefty, sweet and satisfyingly textural. Lots of eatery fruits added balance in the background. With water it became more mentholated, with grasses, clover, tea tree oil and juniper all on display. We also got some banana liqueur, orange marmalade and menthol tobacco notes.