Suck à l’orange

A strong waft of orange (an orange box and orange blossom) almost overshadowed the black tea, mahogany, demerara, vanilla, figs and raisins... but not quite. The palateas initial fizz (sherbet, a bellini and orange sorbet) gave way to toasted marshmallows, rocky road and iced mocha, before finishing with clove, walnuts and cranberry. The reduced nose promised a rich, sweet, gorgeous nectarquince paste, an apricot danish, chocolate sticks with cruncy orange pieces, and chocolate brazils, plus a rose and elderflower florality. The palate was now mouth-puckering and spritzy with orange ice lollies, freshly made strawberry jam, muscovado and orange peel. Fourteen years in ex-bourbon wood preceded the embrace of this first-fill oloroso hogshead.