LATEST OUTTURN

Juicy peaches and nectarines jigged on a sticky dancefloor of bramble jam, pirouetting around pine needles and pears before tumbling into clove and cinnamon honey. The tempo heated up with ginger, chillies and dark chocolate while marmalade and marzipan boogied away with cardamom and star anise. Care should be taken with water as the Panel preferred it without. However, a few drops of water scattered caramel and chocolate-coated coffee beans among the revellers, as rooibos tea now tap-danced with candied orange and mint leaves in hot chocolate. A crème brûlée then cracked its crust, before dried apples and custard faded into a soft pepperiness. After spending 13 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead this was transferred to a second fill marsala barrique for the remainder of its maturation.

This experimental small-batch blended malt explores what happens when Scotland meets Mexico; peated Scotch whisky additionally matured in mezcal-seasoned casks. There is a wonderful interplay found in the smoky realm, delivering salty, rugged, coastal elements and delightfully earthy and herbal tones. We immediately braced for impact, finding stormy weather on the nose at first sniff, as savoury sea spray set up a coastal theme. A gigantic, smoky, herbal influence followed, as if thyme, rosemary, savory and marjoram had been thrown on hot coals, with burnt lime and Cumberland sausages still on the barbecue. As the storm surge hit our palates, tarry flavours of sweet molasses, smoke and black tea started things off, soon supported by treacle-cured ham and hickory-smoked salmon, and a mojo sauce of cumin, orange, lime, coriander and mint – for pork. After a splash of water, the aromas developed a fresher, holiday foodie character. Imagine washing your hair with tar shampoo before a meal of zingy lime bread toasted on hot coals, with pork chops in a hot pan and crushed cardamom. Then, on the palate, sip a smoky margarita made with agave syrup, with ashy slices of pear from the barbecue, and a lime juice, bay leaf and desiccated coconut dressing. It's a feast of smouldering delights.

The Panellists sat on a wooden veranda in wicker rocking chairs, smoking very light-bodied cigars as we admired the sunset over a field of barley. On the small side table, we had a classic martini with gin, vermouth, an olive and a twist of lemon. After dilution the sun had set and we enjoyed a slice of fruit cake – either exotic from Madeira, a bolo de mel, or closer to home, from Dundee. To drink we now had a bourbon manhattan (sweet vermouth, bitters, maraschino cherry and orange peel) accompanied by a bowl of dry-roasted peanuts. Following 10 years in a first fill ex-bourbon barrel, we transferred this whisky into a second fill Spanish oak oloroso hogshead.