LATEST OUTTURN

The embrace of an American oak, first-fill, oloroso hogshead after 13 years in ex-bourbon wood has created a nose that evoked joyous celebrations – cinnamon pastries and sangria, espresso and cigars, dessert wine and blown-out cake candles. The palate combined sherry-fed Christmas cake, birnenbrot and syrupy fruits with a teasingly spiced finish of candied ginger, turmeric and walnuts. The reduced nose had our heads swivelling between humidor and boudoir impressions, but also with leather, raisins, peppercorns and prunes. The palate now provoked our appetites with various wine notes, beef bourguignon and nutty vanilla pastries, before vague memories of Andalusian village fireworks closed the celebrations.

The nose started inauspiciously with childhood memories of lino cuts, putty and modelling compound, but eventually opened up to sugared almonds, rich tea biscuits with butter and honey, cinnamon toast and sweet, roasted malt. The palate, sweet and nutty, suggested chocolate hazelnuts and brazils, pralines, almond flakes, coffee-flavour chocolate honeycomb sticks, and maple syrup. The reduced nose turned jammy – jammy dodgers, chocolate swiss rolls, strawberry jam brioche and chocolate ice cream, with side orders of champagne and old books. The palate now became smoother and more rounded – bourbon biscuits, raspberry and coconut chocolate bars and vanilla milkshake, with hints of wood and spice in the aftertaste.

The Panel leaned in, noses twitching with anticipation. Black pepper and polished wood led the charge, soon joined by hoisin oranges, miso caramel ice cream and the delicate sweetness of candied yuzu. Cherry chocolate and brandy snaps added indulgent depth. The first sip unfolded with clafoutis and cinnamon liqueur, chocolate bars, blackcurrant jam and caramelised sage. Apricot jam tarts and chewy black liquorice lingered with rich intrigue. Adding water, the air filled with caraway crackers and strong menthol lozenges, before shifting to freshly polished leather, burnt lemon and balsamic-poached pears. The palate deepened into ras el hanout spice, coconut-kissed strawberry syrup and cinnamon-dusted tarts, before finishing with mace, allspice and a whisper of bay leaf.