LATEST OUTTURN

We set ourselves the challenge of creating a small-batch blended malt using ingredients from each of the five Scotch whisky producing regions. The resulting whisky has bags of character, wisps of smoke, and an abundance of honey. Reminiscent of "old-school" blends of the past, we thought.

This was soft, sweet and seductive, yet had a fairly intense first impression with aromas of golden syrup porridge, stewed orchard fruits and honey-roasted macadamia nuts. On the palate it was truly an experience, delivering poached pears in red wine with armagnac as well as fig and port wine pralines. With a drop of water, the scent of sweet milk chocolate slabs with hazelnuts and pistachios developed next to dates, candied orange peel and rosewater. The taste reminded one Panellist of frutta martorana, those marzipan fruits called ‘pasta reale’ in Italian made out of ground almonds, sugar, corn syrup and lemon juice. Following 12 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a first fill ex-bodega PX barrique.

Wisps of wood smoke wafted through the earthy undergrowth of a wet pine forest, passing over moss-covered tree bark and green leaves. Then heather honey and apricot jam brought a layer of sticky sweetness to burnt toast dipped in antiseptic ointment. Meaty notes of smoked ham emerged, rolled in coriander seeds and brambles. Water released toffee and liquorice aromas, with fresh notes of pine needles, dried limes and lemon curd pie. Now, a punch of peat delivered bags of ash and soot from scorched wood, wrapped in waxy textures that combined with teatree oil and seashells on the finish.

We summarised the neat nose thus – “sea salt and soot, with a whiff of petrol and beef drippings”. And yes, one can describe it as rather singular. That was followed by steak and kidney pie on the palate next to smoked bacon lardons, as well as honey-cured smoked streaky bacon and clootie dumplings. After reduction, the scent was of honey and sea salt-roasted almonds while the taste was that of toasted rye bread, spread with salted butter topped with blueberries and pomegranate seeds. Following 13 years in an ex-bourbon hogshead, we transferred this whisky into a first fill heavy toast medium char hogshead