A curious savoury edge greets the nostrils at first. We are in a small provincial patisserie and the ovens are warm. The nose bristles with golden syrup, orange blossom and dried citrus rinds. Wee twitches of coal smoke, greengages and damson puree all appear. A well buttered croissant is served! Water brings notes of golden caster sugar, eucalyptus oil and a slice of honey cured ham. The texture is wonderfully mouth-coating at first and layers the palate with beeswax, charcoal embers, botrytis and a crumbly biscuit edge. With water there are further notes of wax, Chinese five spice and a clove studded orange ready for mulling.