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There was smoke, “one hell of a lot of smoke!” Imagine sitting on a pebble beach near ‘the mouth of the river’ overlooking the Paps of Jura on a full moonlit night with a sailing ship anchored in the bay. The wind suddenly changed direction and a blanket of smoke from the barbeque has engulfed us. The taste was massive and unapologetic, not sweet, not floral - just peat, well maybe a hint of salty rockpools and ashtrays. With water we gazed into the sky, the moon light illuminating the lighthouse further along the coast, when we noticed a lightning storm rolling in off the sea.