An autolytic Orcadian

This one was superbly coastal, salty, crisp and full of bone-dry peat smoke from the get-go. We also noted herbal teas, cough drops, rich heather ales and crystallised flower honey. Water enhanced these heathery qualities while adding more complex salty and umami impressions such as salt-baked fish and pasta water. The neat palate was like a dazzling hot toddy: lemony, waxy, gently smoky and warming. It displayed wonderful purity and power, we agreed. With water it gave us mineral oil, subtle tarry notes, seawater, preserved lemons and a brittle, thready peat smoke. We also felt there was something autolytic, like an aged, dry champagne. This was matured in an ex-bourbon hogshead for 18 years before being transferred to a second fill bourbon barrel.