The scent of warm milk poured over a slice of madeira cake served in a papier-mâché bowl greeted the Panel. The palate was accompanied by a luxurious jam of red grapes, blackcurrants, gooseberries and wild strawberries. It was buttery too and, with a brief pause, a spiced peanut landed centre stage. Having introduced water, the nose now emulated the unreduced palate and incorporated some bone marrow vanilla ice cream. The dram handled water well, remaining jammy and with a touch of spice, finishing with green apple and plaster of paris.