Apples dumped on hay bales

The nose offered spun sugar, toffee, foamy bananas and myriad manifestations of fruit. The palate, smooth yet invigorating (if that’s not a contradiction), combined stewed rhubarb, kiwi and soor ploom zestiness with vanilla custard slice and strawberry jam; then an afterglow of clove and toasted oak. The reduced nose was basically a ton of apples dumped on a pyramid of hay bales, plus hints of treacle tart, molasses and sultanas. With water, the palate became more playful, delivering plum, peach and perfumed pear, salted caramel and honeycomb. Ginger biscuits, pink peppercorns and sweet chilli provided warmth that lasted long into the finish.