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This dram blossoms delightfully in the glass – pear drops and botanical glasshouses shift to candles, kumquats and polished oak; always the sunny sweetness of golden syrup, runny honey and salted caramel. The palate has a cat’s cradle of tensioned textures and flavours; sweet viscosity (honey, barley sugars, cherries dipped in dark chocolate) and drying hints of mace, orange zest and cinnamon. Water wakens the nose to childhood memories of candy floss, tablet and freshly made toffee apples. The palate remains mouth-coatingly delicious – condensed milk and buttery vanilla fudge – the finish rewards with the dry bitterness of espresso, pencil shavings, redcurrant jelly and bergamot.