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Fragrant smoke on the nose recalled leafy bonfires and humidors; in addition, dark honey and Moffat toffee sweetness, prawn spring rolls with plum sauce and smoky bacon crisps in a leather satchel. The palate tied one panellist to a workbench (leather apron, wood shavings, machine oil), the rest were off to the Caribbean – salt-encrusted sails, dried cod, rum and raisin, muscovado, cinnamon and vanilla. The reduced nose had burnt bracken and gorse, old canvas bags, mead and Maoams. The palate found sweet pastry, lemony notes, delightful smoke and a cricketer’s bag. After 21 years in ex-bourbon wood, we moved this into a heavy-toast, medium-char hogshead.