After eight years in the embrace of a bourbon hoggie, we introduced this to a second-fill toasted French oak barrique. The nose wafted rather subtle notes of jasmine tea, honey, daffodils, Battenberg cake and perfumed leather gloves. Less subtle (fiery but flavoursome we thought) the neat taste had blackberry concentrate, lemon peel and pumpernickel bread, abundant oak and hot Cholula sauce. The reduced nose offered honeydew and charentais, pink wafers and raspberry ripple ice-cream. The palate now seemed softer, sweeter and altogether more affable, with lemon meringue pie, Starburst chews and glacé cherries – and a warming finish of cinnamon biscuits, sweet chilli and pickled ginger.