Fifty shades of citrus

The neat nose on this one revealed a playful and pleasingly light, zingy and refreshing fruitiness. We also detected jelly beans, lemon and lime bonbons, citrus curds, finger limes, bay leaf and pink grapefruit. It appeared to be all about the citrus, the Panel agreed. With water things became richer and more emphatically cereally, toasty and waxy, with notes of fresh warm draff, freshly baked breads, sourdough starter and autolytic champagne. The palate was wonderfully natural and naked, full of lemon barley water, malt extract, barley sweetness, lime curd, pineapple and chopped hazelnuts. Reduction brought a lick of peppery warmth, watercress, pithy citrus rinds and a tang of horseradish.