Thirteen years in ex-bourbon wood preceded final maturation in a first fill American oak PX hogshead. On the nose we got prunes, figs and raisins (Eccles cakes), toffee apples, jammy dodgers and cherry clafoutis – then faint inklings of soft leather handbags and pipe tobacco. The neat palate was smooth and deeply satisfying, with sherry trifle, brown sugar, plum jam and gentle spices. The finish combined oaked rioja, sloe berries, valerian root, clove and kissing a cricket ball (for luck). Water added coconut, roasted chestnut and salted caramel fudge to the nose, while on the palate were fig jam, redcurrant jelly and balsamic glaze.