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We nosed clean, tantalising wood smoke and honey, ice-cream in a garden and paella or Sunday roast savouriness. The palate found hickory chip barbecued pork ribs, golden syrup, treacle and chalky sweets; leaving long-lingering impressions of clove, cinnamon, sandalwood and leather. The reduced nose evoked a dinner party for one panellist (paté, melba toast, honey-glazed ham) while another was smoke-puffing his beehive by the sea-shore. The reduced palate oozed sophisticated maturity – ruby port and sweet tingling cigar smoke; smooth and satisfying as the sunset on an unruffled sea. This went into a refill French oak barrique after 21 years in bourbon wood.