Some lovely, classically sherried qualities were immediately apparent upon first nosing – lots of brown bread, treacle, walnuts, damp leaf mulch and cocoa powder. We also noted fir woods, candied citrus peels and freshly ground coffee. With water we got coconut, custard slices, wormwood and lemon verbena with a tang of VORS palo cortado. The palate when neat was full of sweet notes of aged mead, mint choc chip ice cream and exotic hardwood resins, plus some old-school shilling ales and chocolate-coated brazil nuts. Water delivered creamy wood lactones, treacle, green walnut liqueur, malt loaf and gentle notes of marzipan and aniseed in the finish. This was matured for 12 years in a bourbon hogshead before being transferred to a first fill Spanish oak oloroso hogshead.