A frightfully sweet and generous nose came full of Jamaica cake, parkin, glacé cherries, rum and raisin ice cream, and cinnamon pastries at first nosing. We felt it showed depth as well though, with some lovely nuanced aromas of candied fruit peel, citrus marmalades and raisins macerated in old armagnac. Reduction brought out heather honey, aged cognac and hints of ginger beer and stewed rhubarb. When neat, the palate was similarly sweet but also more perfumed, with gentle flavours of roasted almonds, mixed peppercorns, mandarin liqueur and then some unlit cigar tobacco impressions. With water it became superbly mouth-coating and full of cloves, mulling spices, liquorice and caramel wafers, with some orchard fruits and crushed oatcakes too. Matured for 10 years in a bourbon hogshead, this was then transferred to a first fill French oak ex-Jamaican rum barrique.

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