The Goldilocks zone

At first nosing we found a classically honeyed and full-bodied Speysider. We noted porridge with honey, white bread spread with flower honey and the sweet notes of American cream soda, toasted coconut, fruity muesli and clove-studded green apples. Water brought out some firmer impressions of shilling ales, heather flowers and barley water. The palate was surprisingly soft and inviting at first, delivering lots of natural sweetness, a creamy texture and lovely elements of orange wine, herbal tea, coconut and citrus curds. Reduction brought out liquorice, cooking oils, tinned mandarin slices and a gentle, waxy finish.