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Adventures in Whisky

Man in glasses savoring a drink, wearing a vest and tie.

By Andrew Derbidge

This article is from issue 105 of Unfiltered

The journey

Hearing the story behind someone’s first dram is always a good listen. It marks the start of a meandering flavour adventure, twisting and turning through all sorts of different styles and strengths. Without a finish line in sight, sometimes the journey is better than the destination, as SMWS Australia chairman Andrew Derbidge writes

Man in a suit holding a glass, smiling at an event.

Andrew Derbidge has seen a change in people's whisky journeys over the years

Whisky is a journey. From the moment we enjoy our first dram, we subsequently embark on a lifelong journey of discovery, exploration, education, and satisfaction. Many decades ago, the common narrative told us this journey was quite defined, if not rigidly prescribed. We were expected to start our journey with a nondescript blend; graduate to a lighter-style single malt; work our way up to a bolder, more robust style and then, finally, conquer the beasts from Islay.  

Today, thankfully, both the industry and the general public’s approach to whisky is far more relaxed, non-structured and, dare I say, user-friendly. The whisky journeys still exist, but we have ample resources – whisky clubs, bars, websites, YouTube videos, books and social media – to help us navigate it at our own pace and in whichever direction our palate and curiosity lead us.
One of the great attributes of The Scotch Malt Whisky Society I’ve always appreciated is that it serves whisky drinkers at any point along their journey. Some discover the Society many years into their voyage; others have the Society to thank for introducing them to good whisky in the first place.  

Personally, I’ve loved seeing the Society’s narrative and touch points with whisky drinkers evolve over the years. I hosted my first SMWS tasting in Sydney in the early 2000s at a time when – in Australia, at least – single cask, cask-strength, non-chill-filtered, single malt was still pretty much unheard of. I remember at those early Society events that I often had to spend the first 10 – 15 minutes of any tasting explaining and describing what the product was, and why Society whiskies were so different to what the audience was familiar with.  

We would take pains to explain why, for example, the Society’s ex-bourbon cask bottling from distillery 24 tasted so different to the heavily-sherried 12-year-old distillery offering they were accustomed to. Or why its texture and mouthfeel seemed so oily and different . We’d often discuss what terms like chill filtration or cask-strength meant, and why Cask No. 3.78 might taste completely different to Cask No. 3.79, even though they were both filled on the same day and sat side-by-side in the warehouse together for 10 years.  

Over the ensuing years, our narrative adapted, as did the nature of the typical whisky drinker’s journey. Whisky bars started to pop up and the general knowledge and awareness of quality spirits increased across all categories, not just malt.

A younger, more diverse demographic began to patronise our tastings; tutored masterclasses gave way to more informal and multi-faceted events; collaborations and whisky pairings broadened the playing field; and perhaps most importantly we focussed more on using the F-word. Flavour.      

Because flavour, inherently, is what it should be all about. Each of us have our preferred style of whisky and a set of flavours that push our individual buttons. Going back to the original ethos and raison d'être of the Society, the distillery’s identity is almost superfluous. If you love heavily peated whisky, then it shouldn’t really matter what code is on the label, only what’s inside your glass.

The beauty of the whisky journey is that it has no destination. We never reach the finish line. Each Society cask; each new dram; each new distillery opens a new rabbit hole to dive down. There’s no need to know where you’re next heading, just relax with a pal and let flavour lead the way.